Bordello's Italian Pizzeria - Kelowna, BC

Last week I happened to be in Kelowna, BC, visiting family, and after a long day of running around after toddlers and a dog, we all desperately needed something to eat, and fast. Given that we were feeding four adults, three toddlers (one of them mine), and a dog, picking up some pizza seemed like a good option. Luckily, my sister had noticed a place the day before while wandering around – Bordello’s Italian Pizzeria – that enabled us to avoid the ubiquitous goopy, greasy, chain pizza.

We ordered three pizzas, a Margherita, a Bernardo, and a Verdura, and two salads, the Italian Chopped, and a spinach salad (not on the website, they no longer make the one listed there) for pick-up. They said 15 minutes, but when our ‘delivery person’ arrived 20 minutes later, not only was the order not ready, she had to wait another 10 minutes. But despite the inaccurate time information, we were overall very happy with our dinner. Living in Vancouver, I actually have access to some decent Italian style pizza, so my standards are pretty high (although by that point in time, I was so hungry that I would have been happy with pretty much anything). Bordello’s is not BiBo (doesn’t quite have the right crispy to chewy ratio in the crust, but isn’t as expensive either), but it’s as good as Marcello’s (a neighborhood standby for us on busy nights). The crusts had a little too much burn on them for me, but the toppings were present in just the right amount, so all in all, quite tasty.

Notably, everyone was happy with the pizza: me, the two year old who eats anything, the two moderately picky adults, the two very picky almost two-year olds, the not-very-adventurous-eater adult who was expecting ‘regular’ pizza. Even the dog who cleaned up the floor under the children. I preferred the two tomato pizzas to the white one, but only slightly, and my preference wasn’t shared by everyone. The salads were on the small side, and pretty much just fine. Fine, as in, OK, but nothing special. If I lived in Kelowna, I would probably just make a salad to two at home instead of buying any there.

Overall then, 4 thumbs up for the pizza (I’ll just treat everyone else’s thumbs as one pair), and probably 2 for the salads. So definitely go for the pizza, but skip the salad.

Maenam

Rather unsurprisingly, having a newborn has had a significant impact on our ability to go out for dinner. Luckily, however, grandmothers, when they are around, love to look after babies, and a recent visit gave us a welcome night out. After some discussion, we decided to use our limited freedom to try out a new restaurant in our neighborhood - Maenam (http://www.maenam.ca/).

Maenam is in the space previously occupied by Gastropod, and is run by the same people. I must say that we were both much happier with their new venture than their old. (I am not a big fan of molecular gastronomy as it is often practiced in North America. In Spain…now that’s another matter entirely.) The space is not much changed. Yes, the actual décor is different, but the layout is the same (at least to my eyes). And it still has the same feeling - formal enough to make you feel like you’re in for something special, but yet casual enough to be inviting.

Importantly, Maenam lives up to the impression; the food and service were both excellent, and the prices are remarkably low given the high caliber of both. We both actually remarked more than once at the degree of dissonance we felt between the ambiance (including the very professional service) and the prices.

The quality of ingredients and care of preparation are clear in every dish. We ordered roti, house made fermented thai sausages, pad thai, David Thompson’s 3 flavour fish, smoked duck red curry, and rice. The roti, sausage, and pad thai arrived first. The sausage was very tasty. We were both somewhat apprehensive about what exactly a fermented sausage would be like, but be assured, there was nothing funky about it, just great complex flavor. The server warned us about the chili inside, suggesting that we remove it prior to eating the sausage. I was very glad I heeded her warning, but I was also glad that the chili had been in the preparation, as it added a wonderful heat to the sausage. (If you eat whole habaneros, you could probably leave the chilis in, but otherwise, I agree that they are best removed before eating.) I have read reviews gushing about the pad thai, and while we both thought it was tasty, it was not the highlight of the meal for us. It was, what pad thai should be. (I suppose maybe we’ve been lucky in our previous pad thai experiences - I can’t relate to the stories of gloppy thick or dry flavorless noodles that seem to accompany rhapsodies about Maenam’s pad thai.) The roti, by contrast, was undercooked, rather like a sticky gluey paste that had been warmed. The flavour was pleasant enough, but the texture was not. While we were eating the pad thai and roti, the fish, duck, and rice arrived at our table. The fish was my choice and I was very very happy with my selection. The ling cod was perfectly cooked, still moist, but with ultra crispy skin. And the salty, sweet, and sour flavours are perfectly balanced, all present, none stealing the spotlight from the others. I was less taken by the smoked duck curry, but that is more about my tastes than the quality of the dish, which was quite apparent; the duck was quite tasty, and the sauce was very complex and well crafted, with great depth of flavour without being overbearing.

We were both very happy with our experience, and definitely plan to return, something not true of our visit to Gastropod. If it were as expensive as Gastropod was, we would not be so enthusiastic, but as it is, it is great value for money. We highly recommend it.

4 happy thumbs.

Blue Water Cafe & Raw Bar

Our anniversary is so close to Christmas that we decided long ago to forgo gifts. Instead, we go out for a nice meal together. This year’s destination was the Blue Water Café and Raw Bar (www.bluewatercafe.net).

Likely due to the weather, we managed to get a last minute reservation there for 8:45 on a Saturday night. (We only called at 6.) The wonderful service started the moment we walked through the door. We were greeted and our coats taken immediately upon arrival. A few moments later we were seated and the waiter arrived shortly thereafter to ask about water, and our water and fresh bread rolls with a chick pea red pepper spread quickly followed.

We had almost decided on dinner, when the waiter came back with Chris’s bubbly (Sumac Ridge Pinnacle Brut) and told us about the specials. This of course caused us some pause. In the end, I went with the Galiano Island Swimming Scallops baked with tomatoes caper compote, lemon beurre blanc as a starter and the Lingcod with warm celeriac panna cotta, beluga lentils, caramelized salsify, and tarragon mustard jus as my main, both from the menu. Chris opted for the mixed ceviche (menu) to start, followed by a scallop special, scallops with a raisin caper sauce, roasted fingerling potato, and cauliflower and broccoli, for his main course.

The first course dishes arrived remarkably quickly. Chris really enjoyed the ceviche. In particular, he thought that the ginger and grapefruit were a unique but wonderfully flavorful twist on a classic dish. And his bubbly was a perfect complement. I was less enthused by the scallops. Some were overcooked, others were undercooked. Some had altogether too much bread crumb, making them dry, and the tomato-caper compote was remarkably bland. I was also a little taken aback that one of the scallops still had the ‘foot’ attached. At a restaurant of this caliber, I don’t expect those sorts of mistakes. So all in all, the dish was disappointing.

Not so with our main courses. The scallop dish that Chris ordered was wonderful. The scallops were perfectly cooked, and the blended raisin caper sauce was so tasty it was hard not to lick the plate! It could have been too sweet, but wasn’t - just wonderfully buttery, with a touch of salty sharpness from the capers, and a soupcon of sweetness from the raisins. The glass of Poplar Grove Pinot Gris he had alongside his meal had just the right amount of citrus and acid to serve as a foil for the buttery richness of the scallops and the sauce. My dish too was very good. The cod had a nice crust on the outside, but was just barely cooked through. The lentils were slightly undercooked in my opinion, but very flavorful. (I love beluga lentils and eat them every chance I get. So I have numerous other lentil experiences to compare with, including last year’s anniversary dinner at West.) When ordering, I was curious rather than enthusiastic about the celeriac panna cotta. But it was creamy and had just the right amount of celery flavor to it, and so ended up being quite a nice accompaniment to the fish. The caramelized salsify and pearl onions were like candy, their natural sweetness brought out perfectly by the roasting. And the tarragon sauce was surprisingly good. I often find tarragon overwhelming, but the chef had an appropriately light hand with the herb in this sauce. We were both very content after our mains.

After our plates were cleared we noticed a dark ring on the tablecloth where my plate had been. It seems that the bottom of my plate was dirty, not with grease, but with dark dust, something I found a surprising, and little off-putting.

After much deliberation, for desert, I opted for the Cassis Crème Brulee with apple fondant and Chris, the Warm Dark Cuban Chocolate Cake with vanilla bean ice cream. He chose to pair the cake with a glass of Mt Boucherie Pinot Noir Ice Wine. I simply had tea. I have never before had a tart tangy crème brulee, and so was a little shocked when I first tasted it, but after the third mouthful I was convinced. It was not what I expected, but it was delicious nonetheless. Likewise, the flavor of the apple fondant was wonderful. However, it was filled with hard apple core bits; there was some in almost every bite. I really hate biting into cooked apple and finding sharp hard bits in my teeth. Again, it seemed that the attention to detail was just not there. Chris found his Chocolate Cake tasty, but not spectacular. The wine he chose paired well with the ice cream, but less so with the cake. Note that this was not the pairing recommended on the menu, however, we have had wonderful experiences with red desert wines and chocolate which influenced his choice. (Pairing of note, anything dark chocolate with Van Der Heyden Late Harvest Cabernet Sauvignon, www.vanderheydenvineyards.com/.) It was, however, very nip to sip by itself, and we will almost certainly look for it

Overall, we were happy with the meal. There were a few things that were somewhat unsatisfactory (the scallops, the dirty underside of my dinner plate, the apple core in the desert), but in the main, the flavors were very good. And the service was consistently exemplary. Despite the few bumps in the road, we would return.

4 thumbs.

La Quercia – Second Visit

Last weekend I happened to be up in Vancouver for a quick visit and had a yen for some Italian food. So we instantly though of La Quercia (www.laquercia.ca/index.html), but when we called (at about 8 pm on Saturday), they were all booked up for the evening. Undaunted, we decided to try again the next day, and managed to get a table for 8:30.

Our table was ready and waiting for us when we arrived. (We were actually given a choice of tables. Hint: Sunday evenings look like a good time to go to La Quercia.) Water and bread arrived very quickly, which was good, because it gave us something to eat while facing the difficult task of deciding what to eat. Although the menu is diminutive, there are often numerous specials, and everything sounds delicious, making deciding more difficult than one might imagine given so few choices.

In the end, Chris went with one of the specials as a starter and, remembering our first visit (http://bcfoodandwineadventures.blogspot.com/2008/08/la-quercia-restaurant.html), a small dish of one of the pasta specials as his main. I ordered a very rich special as my main, and hence wanted something light and fresh to start. There wasn’t anything fitting that description on the menu, so I asked our server if it would be possible to get a simple salad as a starter. He was happy to accommodate my request, and quickly said yes. He returned a short time later to say that, unfortunately, they could not do a green salad, but would be happy to make some sort of seasonal vegetable salad instead, which was perfectly fine with me. Along with this news, he brought a wine for Chris to sample. I wasn’t drinking, so Chris was having wine by the glass. The server suggested a red wine to go with his meal, but had something else not usually available by the glass that he thought might work well, and so offered Chris a taste. It was indeed a good wine for the food, and if I could remember what it was we might have it again. But unfortunately, I wasn’t paying much attention. I do remember that it was northern Italian.

Our starters arrived shortly thereafter. Mine was a mélange of cut green beans, asparagus, small radishes, and shaved fennel with a light vinaigrette. It was perfect. The vegetables were crisp and the vinaigrette was light. Chris had a special that was highly recommended by the server – very thin slices of veal tongue with a red wine reduction served alongside shaved white onions. Neither of us had ever eaten tongue before, but we like to try new things and so we took our server’s recommendation. (Speaking of which, I loved my recent first taste of sweetbreads at Restaurant Tallent in Bloomington, IN, www.restauranttallent.com/index.html. I highly recommend them, and the restaurant.) We were very glad we did. It was incredibly flavorful. The onion was the perfect (and necessary) foil for the richness of the meat and sauce. The texture was remarkable, tender, yet toothsome. (It was so good I am inspired to try cooking tongue at home, an experiment Chris is heartily behind.)

Mains: Chris’s Tagliatelle Bolognese was as wonderful as we remembered. The fresh pasta was perfectly cooked, kissed with just the right amount of their fabulously rich Bolognese sauce. The portion looked small (it was the appetizer size after all), but it was more than enough. It’s a filling dish. Moreover, I had anticipated that I would need some help finishing mine, and was not wrong about this. I had ordered the veal involtini special - veal scaloppine stuffed with taleggio and proscuitto. It was served with a reduction including a little marsala, some crispy roasted potatoes, chard stem bits, and some thinly sliced quickly sautéed zucchini. All in all it was pretty tasty. I found the potatoes a little too salty, and the meat a little undercooked. (The innermost veal in the roll was barely warm. But the outside was perfectly cooked, meaning that a longer cooking time to accommodate the internal meat would have produced a leathery outer layer of veal, which would have been worse. So I just dealt with it.) On the plus side, the flavors of everything on the plate were great. I have to come clean, I don’t like zucchini. I usually find it bitter. (Strange, given how much I love bitter greens.) But this was not at all bitter, and I enjoyed the few bites of zucchini I had. (Chris pretty much takes it for granted that he gets my zucchini.) I had expected that I would taste the components of the involtini, but this was not the case. The veal, cheese, and ham flavors all melded beautifully. I would definitely order this dish again.

By this point in time, Chris had moved on to another wine. I believe it was the Tenuta del Portal 2005 Aglianico. Much fruitier than the first wine. His assessment was that the second wine was better for drinking, the first was a better accompaniment to the food.

We finished off with a lambrusco-poached pear, stuffed with lemon mascarpone. I believe they used a sweeter lambrusco for poaching, but added little sugar to the poaching liquid, so it was not cloyingly sweet. (For those whose lambrusco experience begins and ends with Ruinite, lambruscos can be incredibly crisp and dry.) And given the lower alcohol content of lambruscos (compared to regular red wine) there was little leftover alcohol flavor. Just the fruitiness of the wine and subtle flavors of warm spices and lemon.

Once again, we left happy, and will return. Next time, however, we might try the tasting menu. I can’t find any mention of it anywhere. But the table next to us was having it, and it looked spectacular. So I’d suggest asking about it when you phone and make reservations. We will.

4 thumbs.

Gyoza King

Most people’s idea of Japanese food is sushi, and certainly Vancouver is a great place to find fresh high quality sushi. But there is much more to Japanese food, as we have discovered at places the likes of Gyoza King, an izakaya at 1508 Robson street.

Izakayas are bars with food, usually small plates made for sharing. (Think tapas, Japanese style.) The first time we went we were lucky enough to go with some friends, one of whom had lived in Japan. It’s an extensive menu, and most of the items are unfamiliar. We let him pick the food that evening, a wise choice. He introduced us to things we likely would not have tried otherwise, but which we fell in love with and now order on our own. Our favorite is oden, a wonderfully light flavorful broth with a variety of things, such as boiled eggs, daikon, and surimi cakes, in it. It is a must-try item. You can order individual items in broth, or a five- or seven-item bowl, where the choices are fixed. The first time we had it we tried the seven-item bowl, but on this visit we had the five, and as it turns out, we prefer the five. (If I could tell you what the things are in the broth I would, but I can’t. Just take the plunge, you’ll be glad you did.)

Among the unfamiliar items are a variety of things cooked in foil packets, such as mushrooms and scallops. I am always reluctant to order these, as they don’t sound particularly appetizing, but am always happy afterwards. On this visit we had the mushrooms, and as usual, I couldn’t stop eating them. We also ordered their house pickles, which are quick pickles that change regularly. This visit it was mostly pickled napa cabbage, spicy and nicely crunchy.

They also have many of the more familiar Japanese dishes: sashimi (but no sushi), yakitori, karage, and, as one might imagine, gyoza (there are six different kinds), to name a few. Their gyoza are indeed tasty. We had two orders on this visit, prawn and vegetable. FYI: they do not bring gyoza sauce with your order, it’s already on the table. Another one of our favorites, and a must have is the agedashi tofu. I love agedashi tofu. Chris occasionally likes it. He always likes it here. Translation – you need not be a tofu person to appreciate this dish. The bonito ribbons on top are like nothing I’ve ever experienced. They almost dance on your tongue, literally, not just figuratively. (Note, the pieces of tofu are covered in a batter that is slightly heavier than is typical for agedashi, but despite that, it is still a very light dish.)

We have been to other izakayas in town, but Gyoza King is our favorite. It is not flashy or trendy, just good, authentic (according to our various friends who have lived in Japan), reasonably priced food. Be sure to check out the specials when you’re there too. There’s always something there that tempts us.

They have a decent selection of sakes and beers, as well as cocktails.

4 thumbs!



Want great gyoza without crossing a bridge? Check out Jun Sushi at 3309 W. Broadway. They only have two kinds (pork and veggie) but it's really great gyoza, made fresh on the premises (sometimes just for you!).

Dim Sum at Sun Sui Wah on Main

We love dim sum. It is our preferred ‘Sunday brunch’, and we’ve eaten dim sum in more cities than I can remember. It’s always interesting to see the differences in what is served and how. Is there a congee cart? Are there vegetable dumplings, gai lan, noodle dishes? Do you get smooth chili sauce or oily? What about hot mustard? Does the table setting include bowls? Is there soya sauce on the table? All of these things vary by city, likely due to differences in immigration patterns.

When I last lived here the place to go for dim sum was the Pink Pearl on E. Hastings, but times have changed and the last time we went there we were very disappointed. But this did not discourage us; we were fairly confident that there was still good dim sum to be had in the city, we just had to find it. The trouble is, the usual cues are not as valid in Vancouver – in this very multi-cultural city other white faces are not necessarily a sign to stay away.

I am happy to report that we have found a new favorite spot – Sun Sui Wah on Main (http://www.sunsuiwah.com/e-about-1.html). They have the usual sui mai, ha gow, sticky rice, and steamed pork buns. Making us very happy, they also had our favorite which can be hard to come by in some places – steamed bean curd skin rolls. As always, we tried a few new things, and especially liked the scallop dumpling soup. (I think a better translation might have been scallop soup with dumplings, since the scallop was in the broth and the single large dumpling was not filled with scallop. But it was tasty.) They also have one of the largest selections of desert items I’ve ever seen at dim sum. I am not a big desert eater, and generally am even less enthusiastic about Chinese deserts. But in the spirit of trying new things at new places, we tried the mango pancakes one on the advice of one of the hosts. They’re little pillows consisting of a thick crepe/thin spongy pancake-like thing filled with fresh mango slices and whipped cream. The mango was so flavorful it reminded me of eating them fresh in the tropics. I think if we weren’t already so full, we would have ordered another plate of them! We highly recommend these.

The variety of items was not as wide as our favorite place (http://restaurantpeony.com/) in our ‘other’ city (particularly in terms of items with vegetables), but the food was tasty, and the service very friendly.

4 thumbs.

Bay Moorings in Horseshoe Bay

We were heading over to Vancouver Island on a Monday, arriving at the ferry terminal in what should have been plenty of time for the 2:30 sailing. Unfortunately for us, it was not a typical Monday. There was a 1-2 sailing wait, which surprised even the locals. Not to worry we thought, the next sailing was at 3:30 and we looked good for that one. Alas, it was not to be either – we missed it by 4 cars, leaving us stranded there for another 2 hours. By this time it had been hours since breakfast and we were going to kill each other if we didn’t eat soon. So we locked up the car and left the terminal to see what was to be had in Horseshoe Bay village.

Against our better judgment we succumbed to the pull of the fabulous view to be had on the patio at the Bay Moorings Restaurant (www.baymooringsrestaurant.com/index.html). Together we’ve lived in eight countries and visited many others, and we are both of the opinion that there really is no place on earth like British Columbia. The view from the patio is a perfect example – the sun on the water and the majestic mountains, where patches of snow are still to be seen. Sea birds, some coasting on air currents, others diving at fishes. The spectacular untamed beauty of this province is truly remarkable, something I didn’t really appreciate until I left and came back. On this, Bay Moorings truly delivered. We sat in silent awe for a few moments, appreciating the opportunity that the ferry had delivered us. That and the very quick delivery of a nice cold local lager put us in a much calmer mood immediately. Unfortunately, we were much less impressed by the food. We ordered some dolmades when we ordered our pints – it’s a Greek restaurant after all – and a pizza and the seafood special a few minutes later. Unfortunately, I cannot comment on the dolmades because they never came. We were surprised they were taking so long when suddenly the rest of our food arrived. We mentioned the dolmades to the runner and when he said he would bring them quickly, we declined. (We didn’t really need that much food, we had just needed something quick to start.) The server came by the table shortly thereafter and rather brusquely informed us that it was not her fault, she had ordered them. Rather an irrelevant fact at that point, as she had not ensured that we actually received them.

We shared a thin crust pizza we (I) designed with tomatoes, green pepper, onions and feta, and Chris ordered one of the daily specials, mussels and clams with a white wine marinara sauce. The pizza crust was very thin and nicely crispy. The toppings were fresh enough and went well together. The mozzarella cheese was not quite melted, however. It could definitely have used a few more minutes in the oven, but we were too hungry at that point to send it back for more cooking, and so ate it anyway. We were not however hungry enough to eat the other dish. The shellfish themselves were fine, but the sauce was ultra salty, to the point of being bitter.

On a more positive note, the check came quickly, and our change was returned with similar efficiency. They are clearly used to serving ferry customers who often need to rush out in a hurry.

So while we don’t recommend the food, at least the items we ordered (given the ownership, I would be surprised if the greek food weren’t better), they do have a beautiful view, and the beers were cold and came quickly. So if you find yourself stuck at the Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal sometime and want a nice view and some drinks, it’s a fine place to go.

1 thumb for the food, but 4 thumbs for the view.

La Quercia Restaurant

One of the problems with great neighborhood restaurants is that they become destination restaurants and it becomes harder and harder for the locals to get in. I fear that this will happen quite quickly to La Quercia (laquercia.ca), an excellent new addition to our Vancouver neighborhood. Attracting people from elsewhere is a good thing, as it can give the restaurant a better chance of surviving, but it also makes it much harder to wander in for an impromptu meal.

La Quercia has only been open for a few weeks, but already it is packed. We decided at about 6 pm on a Saturday evening that we should try it. Chris urged me to call ahead and I am very glad I did. They told me the earliest they could get us in for a table was 9:45! The bar was available earlier if we liked, and I jumped on that option, reserving it for 8:45. As it turned out, they did have a table for us when we arrived after all, but lesson learned.

We were seated very quickly, but the few moments we stood in the entrance were their own sensory experience. Standing there the first thing that caught our attention was the scent of seafood, then it was pesto, then it was the rich smell of braised meat. Each wave of scent wafting in one by one. It left our mouths watering, and bode well for the meal ahead.

We started with Prosecco; we’re both fans of starting things off with something bubbly and it gave us something to sip on while perusing the menus. You might think with so few items it would be a simple thing to decide. Not so. Does one go traditional and start with antipasti (appetizer), move to primi (pasta), and then on to secondi (main course) or not? We decided that this would be much too much food for us and so opted for only two courses each. But then you still have to decide whether to have antipasti or pasta as a starter, and pasta or meat as a main. Then, just as we had decided, the server came and told us the specials, throwing a wrench into things. In the end we decided on two plates each and a bottle of Pinot Nero.

Chris started with the Tagliatelle Bolognese and I with a special, Pork Belly with Apples. We often use Bolognese as a criterion by which to evaluate Italian restaurants, a test which La Quercia passed with flying colours. (A comment by the host shows that we are not alone in this: when he brought us bread (mini ciabattas) and oil, he commented that many people use that dish to judge the restaurant.) It really was excellent. The fresh pasta was perfectly cooked, and the sauce was wonderfully rich and bold, full of the deep flavors which only hours of simmering will impart. The pork belly was nicely crispy, and the accompaniments had the right amount of acid to balance the fat without being overtly noticeable.

For our main courses, we had the Canederli Stuffed Cornish Game Hen (Chris) and Spaghetti Genovese (Carla). According to my après-dinner research, canaderli are traditional bread dumplings or gnocchi from the north of Italy, flavored with herbs, meats, mushrooms or cheese. Here, instead of formed dumplings, the mixture was stuffed into bird’s cavity. Chris’s sense was that it consisted of ricotta, mushrooms, and very small traces of either prosciutto or pancetta (although speck is another possibility). It was accompanied by burst tomatoes, lightly sautéed very thinly sliced zucchini, and a blend of chard stem pieces and fennel. The chard stem was so sweet, and the lightness of the vegetable preparation was a nice contrast to the richness of the game hen. Chris started saying he was full half-way through the portion, and he repeated himself several times whilst finishing the plate. The Genovese was one of the specials that evening. I think I had somehow fooled myself into thinking that the beans would magically make it light. Spaghetti al denti, tossed in a fresh pesto just bursting with the essence of summer flavors, packed with garden fresh green beans, and chunks of potato. Fresh, yes, light no. I wanted a little more pepper, and opted for peperoncini, which brought another dimension to the dish.

Unaware of the portion sizes when we ordered, we also ordered a side of burst cherry tomatoes and rapini. The rapini was blanched and then grilled, bringing out the bitterness. The tomatoes were little globes of perfect end-of-summer sweetness. Both were nice foils to the richness of the game hen and pasta. With respect to portion sizes, they are very generous, and next time I will definitely order the small (primi) portion of any pasta dish, main dish or not.

The Pinot Nero proved to be more robust than we had anticipated. It was not a huge tannic wine, but neither was it a more typical light fruity nero, rather, it was squarely a medium bodied red, substantial enough for our dishes, but not something I’d order with fish for instance.

We had no room left for desert, and so I cannot comment on their offerings in that department. Chris did finish with an espresso, however, and judged it to be excellent. Too often in North America espresso is drawn too long, resulting in a bitter shot. Theirs was a nice small shot, rich and almost chocolaty with a perfect covering of crema, rivaling real Italian espresso. Chris heartily approved.

One thing you should be aware of is the size of the place. It is small, and the tables are very close together, so if you end up sitting near people will horrible table manners (as did we) it can take something away from your experience. But in general, the closeness makes it friendly and cozy. (And it also means there’s at least one more table than there would otherwise be, bettering your chance of getting in.)

I have no doubt that La Quercia will draw diners from other parts of the city, meaning that unfortunately, we will have to share.

4 thumbs!!!

Mistral French Bistro

Today was a special day – we went to Mistral French Bistro (www.mistralbistro.ca) for lunch. Mistral is probably my favorite lunch spot anywhere. Yes, anywhere. We are not the sort of folks who eat lunches like this on a regular basis. We’ve been there to celebrate (a long leisurely lunch can feel more decadent, and so celebratory, than dinner), to turn an ordinary day into a special one, or, as in today, to perk up a bad one. (The bad day actually happened last week, but we couldn’t make it to Mistral until today.)

We arrived at just after 1 pm. The staff were all occupied when we arrived, and it took a few moments before someone came over to greet us. Once noticed, a server came by on his way to a table to tell us he’d be with us in just a moment (letting us know that we’d been seen), and another immediately followed and we were given our choice of several different tables and seated. Water and menus arrived quickly. A server took a little longer (I was feeling a little ignored), but once he came by, he was very helpful and efficient.

Usually we have one of the lunch menus, which are a fabulous value. (My favorite is the Marseille, because I love the bourride.) But today we ordered off the a la carte menu. We started with the Assiette de Charcuterie to share. It’s prosciutto, duck rillettes, and duck pate, with cornichons and an onion jam. (Chris wants me to make the jam. I think I’ll need to try it a few more times to figure it out…) The proscuitto is not in the typical Parma style (nor did it seem to be San Daniele). It seems to be cured for a little less time, giving it a different texture and taste. Not bad by any means, just different.

It was a cool drizzly day, and so a stew or braise was what the day called for. The chef must have been a fortune teller, because one of the specials was a beef short rib stew. We both ordered it. Braised in veal demi-glace and red wine for 8 hours, what could be more perfect? There were mushrooms, pearl onions (and parsnips or turnips?) in the braise and some baby carrots and a ricotta concoction on top. Chick pea flour ‘cakes’ were served alongside. It was incredibly rich. Delicious, but rich. I would almost have preferred the served sauce be cut with some veal stock or a little wine. Chris thought that simply serving less of it would have worked. It was that intense. However, despite the fact that we were both thinking of ways to do something about/with the sauce, neither of us could stop eating it! Think of a really good dark chocolate mousse, the kind where a few bites is enough. Chris finished his, and I got through half and brought the rest home. (Half the meat, that is. I don’t think much of the sauce made it home.) Neither of us could eat a morsel more, so we passed on coffee and desert.

Chris’s wine selection was perfect for the meal. A 2000 Cahors, with substantial tannins and acid, that not only stood up to the meal, but really enhanced it. It was a little tight when opened so we had it decanted, which helped substantially.

At the end of the meal we chatted with the server who was very knowledgeable about local foods and wines. I asked about the prosciutto, and he told me where they get it from. He also divulged his own favorite place to procure charcuterie. (When I go, I’ll be sure to write about it.) We also got some tips on some new BC wines to try. It was a fun ending to a really lovely meal.

I must confess that I have never been to France, and so cannot really say that the food at Mistral is authentic. But they have certainly convinced me that it is. I imagine that were I to go, I would find the same dishes, hopefully prepared with the same excellence.

In sum, we love this place. The food is clearly prepared with skill and care and is always flavorful. Service is consistently good. And they can always guide you to the right wine for your meal. Although today we chose a wine without assistance (we didn’t need it), on other visits we have gotten some help from Minna. In fact, it was she who introduced us to Joie Noble blend (www.joie.ca/2005_joie_vintage_spec_sheet.htm) and first got us to start drinking BC wines again. We have been there for dinner as well (our second anniversary?), and very much enjoyed it. But it’s lunch that we go for again and again. It’s not perfect, no place is. But it more than deserves all our thumbs. I heartily suggest you go. Warning: It is not particularly veggie-friendly. It’s OK if you eat seafood, but if you don’t, this is probably not the place for you.

4 thumbs.

Salsa & Agave Mexican Grill

At last! Something I thought I would never eat in Vancouver- decent Mexican food. So I should be up front about this. I thought Vancouver had bad Mexican before I ever lived in upstate New York (with great seasonal places catering to the farm workers) or California (which needs no explanation). You see, once upon a time I lived in Mexico. I made it my mission to taste a lot of food while there, and learn as much as I could about how to make it (something I don’t do often, as the ingredients can be hard to find here). I like fancy Mexican food just fine, but what I really love is well prepared ‘regular’ food. I’ll admit it, I am a Mexican food snob, especially when it comes to ‘street food’. There is nothing better than a great taco or torta from a cart with questionable provenance!

Chris had tried this place called Salsa and Agave (1223 Pacific Boulevard, no website to link to as yet) a little while ago with some friends who are also Mexican food snobs, and who have had no luck finding Mexican they like much here either. (To be fair, Chris is pretty choosy about Mexican food too. He’s had enough authentic Mexican food with me that he knows what's what.) All three gave it their approval, and I was looking forward to trying it. So when he suggested that we go there for dinner last night, I was apprehensive, but excited. (Too many places here do Mexican and Spanish together, which makes no sense, or do things like use Spanish and not Mexican chorizo, which have totally different flavors! So I was not holding out too much hope lest I be sadly disappointed yet again.)

We got there just before 8 (they close at 8:30), and got the only table available. We decided that we both wanted sopes, which come 3 to an order but without sides, so we also ordered a side of rice and a side of beans. Chris got carne asada, al pastor (which is pork in a sauce) and carnitas (a slow roasted pork of sorts). I ordered al pastor, carnitas, and chorizo. We also ordered a tamarindo jarrito (me) and an agua de Jamaica (Chris), a drink made from hibiscus I believe. The service was very friendly…and not so good. Made me feel just like I was in Mexico. We asked for water about 10 minutes after ordering, because although they brought us some chips and salsa right away, we had nothing to drink alongside them. At some point, we did ask for our drinks and the server was a little shocked to ‘be reminded’ that we had ordered any. (She went and checked the bill, and sure enough, there were 2 drinks on it.) The chips were not homemade (too thin, multi-colored), which was disappointing, (they’ve got to have plenty of leftover tortillas at the end of the night they could use for chips the next day), but the salsa was. Be warned, it was not the standard pico-de-gallo that is often served. It was a cooked salsa. Not cooked as in Pace-Picante-out-of-a-jar. Cooked as in, made from pureed roasted tomatoes that were very likely then cooked. It is very authentic, and something I hadn’t tasted (except at home when I occasionally make it) in years! We got our drinks just before the sopes came. Again, fresh made sopes would have been good, but these were likely purchased, either that, or made too far in advance. Nevermind, because what was on top was wonderful! They could easily have put half the meat on they did, they were so loaded, they were a little hard to eat. But tasty! My only complaint about the meats is that it’s too bad they have to use such lean pork for the carnitas. Pigs these days have so much less fat than they used to, and that means less flavor. (According to Harold McGee, 2004, North American and European pigs have half to 1/5 of the fat they did only 20 years ago!) But that is not the fault of the restaurant.

The rice and beans were fine. I prefer white rice to red, and black beans to pinto or red, probably because in the region where I lived, that’s what the folks ate. But I recognize that there is much regional variation in Mexican foods, and my preferences are just that, my preferences.

So to sum up, the food was terrific, and service was friendly (if horribly inefficient). Oh, and did I mention how reasonable the prices are! I can’t wait to go back.

4 happy thumbs!

Vij's Restaurant

After three years in Vancouver, we finally made it to Vij’s (www.vijs.ca/index_in.htm) last weekend! It’s been on our list of places to try forever, but the famed wait has always seemed a little too much for us. But we decided to brave it – we were going out to dinner with some vegetarian friends, and Indian is always a good option for veggies and non-veggies to eat together. Chris and I were the ‘advance party’ and got there just after the first sitting had been seated, put our name on the list, got some drinks, and settled in for the wait. As promised in every review, complimentary appetizers quickly appeared. I must admit to being a little star-struck when Vij himself came outside to serve some! (Many of the reviews I’ve read of Vij’s talk about ‘free’ appetizers, but nothing is ever really free. The cost is in the time you spend waiting for your table – which hopefully is with company you like and so not really much of a cost – and it necessarily adds to the prices on the dishes on the menu.) You’d think that ‘complementary’ might be shorthand for so-so, but they were all very very tasty, which was good, because we were getting pretty hungry by the time we got our table 2 hours later. They certainly left us wanting to taste more.

One of the reasons the wait was so long was a table of 8 that was sitting and sitting, and sitting some more. But once we were seated we were very glad that they had! It was Daniel Boulud, Tojo, and two other chefs who we think were Frederic Haut-Labourdette (Bistro Pastis) and Posteraro (chef/owner at Cioppino’s). What a table! And despite the presence of the celebrity guests, Vij made us feel like we were the special guests in his restaurant. We were seated next to the door and he noticed that one of our friends was a little cold. He came by to see if she’d like the door closed, and although she said she’d be fine, he had it closed anyway. It was opened again later, and he went and quickly sorted that out for us (to be truthful, before we had even noticed it was open again). And he checked on us personally several times after we were served, asking about the food, getting us more naan, etc. However, we weren’t alone in this treatment. He was all over the restaurant making sure all his guests were having a good experience.

We started with the jackfruit in black cardamom and cumin masala to share. It was mentioned in many reviews (that and the crab, but we wanted something that was veggie-friendly). The texture was interesting (we eat sweet jackfruit often, which has a different texture), and the sauce was delicious. We sopped up every bit with the naan. For dinner our companions had two of the three vegetarian options, and seemed to enjoy their mains. I was waffling between the grilled port tenderloin and back ribs in fennel seed, ginger, and coconut curry with roasted cashews and the beef shortribs in cinnamon and red wine curry with warm greens. When Chris ordered the pork, I went for the beef. It was fantastic. Melt in your mouth, incredible flavour. Slight heat, and a magical combination of spices. I am a Vij’s convert. The pork was quite tasty and a big hit with Chris, but we both thought that the shortribs were magic.

In sum, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Vij’s and will definitely go back. The numerous reviewers who are less then enthusiastic about the restaurant just don’t get it. They want traditional Indian dishes, which this place doesn’t deliver. What they do do is wonderful things with traditional ingredients and techniques combined in novel ways, alongside terrific service. I finally understand what all the hoopla is about.

4 thumbs!!!