Rangoli

Today was a very typical late November day in Vancouver, grey and wet. As usual, the skies couldn’t decide between rain and misty drizzle. Ignoring the weather as Vancouverites do, we headed out to do some shopping. An hour or two later we found ourselves tired and hungry. And too close to Rangoli not to try it for lunch (www.vijsrangoli.ca/).

It’s a perfectly pleasant space, not as rich and opulent as the restaurant next door, but just fine for a quick, casual lunch. Although the covered outdoor space was open, we opted for inside. (I really dislike outdoor spaces that are heated, especially in such a self-professed green-conscious city.) The menu is compact, but with enough variety for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. We opted to share an order of the Cauliflower, Spinach, Onion and Potato Pakoras with daal to start. The pakoras were tasty, just enough chick-pea flour batter to hold the vegetables together, perfectly crispy and not at all greasy. I don’t know if it was me or the weather or just how hungry we were, but the mint chuntey served alongside was the best I’ve ever had, perfectly fresh mint with slight sweetness and just the right touch of spiciness. The daal (chana, I believe) was topped with fresh spinach which added an unexpected dimension of taste and texture.

For our mains, we both decided on the Tilapia on vegetable rice pilaf. The menu says that it is ‘in a creamy tomato, onion, ginger, and cilantro broth’. I would argue with the use of the word broth to describe the liquid. It was not thin, nor did it (as I imagined) surround the rice in a bowl. Terminology aside, it was delicious. Incredibly rich and creamy. Chris quickly finished his, and I ate until beyond full it was so good. It was a perfect example of the genius of Vij’s cooking. Familiar Indian ingredients and techniques combined in novel ways, often with local products, to produce wonderful dishes beyond anything usually found in South Asian restaurants.

We also thought that the service was quite good. Waters arrived quickly, as did our food, although not so quickly as to make us feel rushed. The only thing time I felt like we were waiting was when we were ready to pay – it took a very long time for anyone to come by and pick up our card. Besides being generally efficient, the staff was friendly and personable. One server spent a great deal of time with the table next to us answering questions about Vij’s operations. It also seems to be a pretty family friendly place. We were seated near a large table with numerous small children. It was the only table available when we were seated, and they did offer us a table around the corner when one became available, but we opted to stay put. Their concern was not only for those seated near the children, however, they also seemed quite attuned to the needs of the diners with children. The children were, well, they were young children, and waiting patiently for long periods of time is generally not a quality they posses. Possibly sensing the potential for impending chaos, a server brought a dish of yucca fries to occupy the children while they were waiting on their food.

In sum: wonderful food, good service, reasonable prices, and a family friendly environment.

4 thumbs!

Joie PTG 2006

I recently received information about the release of three Joie limited release wines. Being the Joie fans we are, we rushed to out to the Broadway International Wine Shop (http://www.broadwaywineshop.ca/) and bought three bottles, two of the 2007 Dedication Pinot Blanc and one of the 2006 PTG (Passetoutgrain), a red. Although we had not planned on opening either right away, our resolve did not last; neither did the PTG.

A combination of Pinot Noir and Gamay, the PTG has the light colour of many pinots. But don’t let the visuals fool you, this wine has more body than you would think. (I was actually surprised to see that it’s 40% Gamay; to my mind it drinks like a Santa Cruz Mountains pinot, although with a bit more levity.) Like most of Joie’s offerings, this wine is very old world in style. It has balance. The berry and cherry are very present, but the fruit does not dominate to the exclusion of all else. Likewise the alcohol content; it is listed at 13%, substantially lower than many pinots from Oregon or California. And there is enough acid to enable food pairing, while not so much that it is not also a very pleasant drinking wine.

Notably, this is the first BC Pinot (or mostly pinot as the case may be) that we have thought was worth the money. Given where I actually live most of the year, we have had access to many incredible (and not so incredible) pinots from all over California and Oregon, and as far as new world pinots go, we’ve never been that impressed by those from BC. Several we have tried have been perfectly drinkable, but highly overpriced relative to comparable wines from down south. Less so the PTG.

They suggest this wine will continue to improve for 3-5 years, but I don’t get that same sense. There aren’t components that need mellowing. The various aspects and flavors are already well integrated. And it didn’t change much over the several hours we had it open and exposed to air. Chris in fact suggested that by 2-3 years this wine will begin to decline, and I would have to agree. (Usually we have very different assessments on a wine’s aging potential.) But then, I’m not a winemaker, I’m a wine drinker, and they know their wine better than I do. From my perspective, however, what this really means is that we plan to buy more soon, and enjoy it.

2006 Coyote Bowl Merlot from Church and State Wines

I needed a red wine to use in a pan sauce for this evening’s dinner, and Chris chose a bottle of 2006 Coyote Bowl Merlot from Church and State (https://www.churchandstatewines.com/wines/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30). The dinner was a rouladen-inspired meatloaf (ground beef, pork, and pork sausage meat stuffed with dill spears, onion, and mustard, topped with mustard and bacon), served with steamed brussels sprouts with butter and lemon, oven roasted whole carrots, and warm sour cream and mustard potato salad. (The pan sauce was just beef stock and red wine flavored with pickling spice and bay leaf, reduced and strained.)

I found the nose very intriguing – at first pretty much all I could sense was acid (which is something I usually don’t smell), although with time there were hints of fruit as well. The alcohol content is high, but despite that, it was not strong on the nose. In terms of flavor, it was very tight when we first opened it, but it did open up with some air. And it was definitely better with food than without. We could definitely taste what was described on the label, particularly the tobacco, and later the cherry. It is more old world than new in style. However, overall it seemed rather unbalanced, especially in the lack of any real tannins. Chris recently tried the Nk’mip 2006 merlot and really enjoyed it (http://www.nkmipcellars.com/). He found it to be nicely balanced and more complex in flavor, although very identifiably new world and so quite a different style of wine. Despite our lack of enthusiasm for this wine (the Church and State), according to the website, it has won several awards, so we decided to gas it and try it again tomorrow. Although rare, sometimes wines are actually better the next day. We’ll let you know. Otherwise, I sense a rich stew or braise in our near future.